Custom outdoor furniture
Built for outdoor spaces that see weather.
I build in cedar because Milford winters don't negotiate. Every joint is overbuilt, every edge is broken by hand, and every piece leaves my shop finished for six months of snow load and a July that never gets around to shade. This is the line I build most: porch swings, Adirondack chairs, picnic tables, garden benches — and anything you can sketch on a napkin.
The outdoor line
Four things I build most, built to be handed down.
Everything below ships as shown or gets adjusted to your porch, your yard, your budget. Prices are honest ranges — the exact number depends on wood, size and hardware, and I'll give you a real one before you commit to anything.
Porch Swings
Solid cedar, mortise-and-tenon frame, stainless hardware because I'm not putting rust-streaked bolts over your head. Built single or two-person width, with or without the hanging hardware and chain — some folks already have a beam and hooks, some need the whole kit. The seat back is angled for actually sitting a while, not just looking good in a photo.
- Single or two-person width
- Hanging hardware and chain, optional
- Cedar only — this one lives outside year-round
Adirondack Chairs
The classic wide-arm profile, built in cedar. Order the matching ottoman and side table and you've got a whole corner of the yard sorted in one order.
- Classic or folding-leg profile
- Matching ottoman and side table available
- Cedar or pine — see the comparison below
Picnic Tables
Standard build for a backyard, heavy commercial build for a campground or a school that's going to see decades of kids climbing on it. Available in 6ft or 8ft, with benches attached in the classic A-frame or detached so you can pull a wheelchair or a stroller right up to the end — ADA-friendly end options on request.
- 6ft or 8ft length
- Attached or detached benches
- ADA-friendly end option available
Garden Benches & Planters
Simple slatted benches for a garden path or a spot by the door, plus raised planters and window boxes built to the same standard as everything else — no butt joints, no staples, no shortcuts you'll see in year two. These are the pieces I build between the bigger orders, so they're often the fastest turnaround on the list.
- Slatted benches, 4ft to 6ft
- Raised planters and window boxes
- Made-to-measure for a tight spot
The finish process
Four steps, and the underside gets coated too.
This is the part that actually decides whether a piece looks good after one Maine winter or five. It's not complicated — it just can't be rushed.
Sand and break every edge
Every sharp corner gets eased by hand before finish ever touches the wood — it's why the pieces feel soft under a bare arm and why the finish doesn't crack off a knife-edge in year one.
Seal the end grain
End grain is where water actually gets in — it drinks finish and moisture ten times faster than a flat face. I hit it extra, every time, because that's where I see failures on other people's furniture.
Multiple coats, including underneath
The bottom of a bench seat or a tabletop is the part nobody sees and the part that fails first if it's skipped. Every piece gets flipped and coated on every face, not just the ones facing the yard.
Full cure before delivery
I don't deliver a piece still curing. It sits in the shop until the finish has properly set, so what shows up at your house is ready for actual use, not a wet-paint sign.
Years from now, bring it back and I'll refresh the finish myself — I'd rather re-coat a swing I built in 2026 than have you toss it in 2031.
Commercial & institutional
Built for schools, clinics and campgrounds — not just backyards.
A good chunk of my work now is matched runs for places that need furniture to survive real public use: heavier stock, a center support under the tabletop so it doesn't sag under a class of ten-year-olds, hardware you can re-tighten instead of replace, and finishes I can spot-repair on site instead of stripping the whole piece.
- Heavier commercial-grade stock and center bracing
- Re-tightenable hardware, no epoxy shortcuts
- Spot-repairable finish for high-traffic wear
- Better per-unit pricing on matched runs of six or more
- Purchase orders welcome — schools, dental and medical offices, campgrounds, churches
Spring is when everyone wants delivery at once, so if you're ordering for a school year or a season opening, get in touch a couple of months ahead — April and May book up by February most years.
Common questions
Materials, care and ordering.
How much do your pieces cost?
I aim to sit right in the middle — better built than what you'll find at a big-box store, and a good bit friendlier than a high-end gallery. Adirondack chairs, porch swings and picnic tables all have a standard price I'm happy to share up front, and custom work is quoted per piece based on size, wood and detail. I'll always give you a real number before anything starts, and if your budget is tighter than the design, I'll suggest a version that gets you close.
How long does a custom piece take?
Standard pieces like Adirondack chairs and picnic tables are often two to four weeks depending on the season. Larger custom furniture — dining tables, built-ins, novelty pieces — typically runs four to eight weeks. Spring and early summer are my busiest stretch, so if you want a swing on the porch by Memorial Day, reach out early.
Do you take a deposit?
Yes. A deposit holds your spot on the build schedule and covers materials, with the balance due at delivery. For commercial orders and multiples I'm happy to work with a purchase order.
What woods do you work with?
For outdoor work I mostly use cedar and pine — cedar when the piece lives exposed to weather, pine when it's under cover or when budget matters. Indoors I work in maple, cherry, oak, ash and walnut. If you have a preference or a wood with meaning to you, tell me and we'll talk about whether it suits the build.
Can I use wood from my own property?
Sometimes, and it's some of my favorite work. Wood from a family tree or an old barn can absolutely become a table or a bench, but it needs to be properly dried and it needs to be free of nails and hardware. Send me photos and I'll tell you honestly whether it will work.
How do I care for outdoor furniture in Maine winters?
Honestly? Less than you'd think. Cedar can stay out year-round and will either weather to a soft gray or stay warm-toned if you re-coat every couple of seasons. I'll send care notes with every outdoor piece, and I'm always a phone call away if a piece needs a refresh down the road.
Will I see the piece before it's finished?
Yes — this is the part customers tell me they appreciate most. I send photos as your piece comes together: rough stock, joinery, glue-up, first coat of finish. Nothing about the final delivery should be a surprise.
What's the plaque on the back?
Every piece leaves my shop with a small Shorey Woodworking plaque. It's a maker's mark and a promise — if my name is on it, it was built to last, and if something ever goes wrong you know exactly who to call.
Tell me about your porch.
Send a few photos, the rough dimensions, and what you've got in mind. I'll come back with real pricing and a real lead time — no guessing games, no upsell.